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The area of Paklenica National Park stretches on the littoral slope of South Velebit directly above the settlement of Marasovići, up to the zone of the highest mountain peaks (Vaganski vrh, Babin vrh, Sveto brdo) – between 15°23’ and 15°35’ east geographical longitude and between 44°18’ and 44°25’ north geographical latitude.
It covers the area of torrent flows of Velika Paklenica and Mala Paklenica, and their distinctive canyons carved vertically into the south slopes of Velebit and the broader surrounding area. The relatively small area has an abundance of geomorphological phenomena and forms, diverse flora and fauna, attractive landscapes and intact nature.

History

The area of South Velebit has been inhabited since prehistoric times. It is believed that, during the last ice age, the area was probably inhabited by small groups of Paleolithic hunters/collectors, like elsewhere in the Mediterranean. The sea level must have been 120 lower than today at the time, and Velebit Channel was a wide valley with a river flowing through it. The highest parts of Velebit were covered with glaciers. When the sea level began to rise in the late ice age, people moved to higher, hilly areas. The earliest records of humans in Velebit – Mesolithic flint tools found in Vaganačka Cave under Veliko Rujno- date back to this era.

Approximately eight thousand years ago, the first cattle breeders and farmers arrived in the area, brining wheat, domestic goats and sheep, as well as the knowledge of their breeding. The hunting/collection activities soon lost its importance, and a shepherd life began on Velebit. Plenty of material evidence, such as bones of domestic animals, tools and equipment used by prehistoric shepherds and decorated clay tableware, was found in the caves that served as shelter for people and cattle.

Over the last two thousand years before Christ, during the Bronze Age, the first fortifications and stone wall buildings were erected. They could serve as shelter to the population from the surrounding villages in case of danger, and some of them may have been permanent settlements where the local rulers had their seats. In addition, they oversaw important cattle and trade routes leading to Velebit and further to Lika via Paklenica or Rujan. Some of them served to oversee navigation. They are now destroyed, but ring-shaped mounds up to several meters in height can still be seen in some places. In immediate vicinity of the fortifications, you can find casket heaps – deposits of large round stone under which former rulers were buried in casket made of stone tablets. Most of them have been dug out and the graves have been robbed, but they can still be spotted here and there, like in the area of the village of Ljubotić above Tribanj-Kruščica.

Over the last two thousand years before Christ, the east coast of the Adriatic was gradually conquered by the Roman legions. After the Roman Province of Dalmatia was founded in the early 1st century A.D., permanent Roman reign was established. Starigrad (Roman name: Argyruntum) was established at the time, and it soon developed into an important trading center. In the fourth century A.D., Emperor Tiberius had it fortified with walls and towers. The town cemetery was situated by the road that led southwest of the town.  Plenty of archeological findings were collected from approximately 400 explored graves – jewelry, glassware and metalware, weapons and tools. The most interesting finding is certainly the ancient glass collection – as many as 146 vessels of different forms (bowls, glasses, bottled) – kept in the Zadar Museum of Archeology.

Life in Argyruntum came to a standstill in the early 4th century A.D. The era of peace was interrupted by attacks of barbaric nations that eventually led to the decline of the Roman state. In an attempt to bring the Adriatic coast back to Empire, East Roman Emperor Justinian built a system of fortifications to secure navigation and protect the local population. The ruins of forts and towers above Modrič and near Sveta Trojica not far from Tribanj are parts of this defensive system that briefly postponed the final decline of the ancient world in the Adriatic.

The arrival of Croats in this area began in the early Middle Age. The earliest preserved traces of their presence are the chapels of St. George (S. Juraj) in Rovanjska and the chapel of St. Peter (Sv. Petar) in Starigrad, built in the 9th or 10th century A.D. Two forts - Večka kula and Paklarić – were probably erected in the late Middle Age (14th-16th century).

This era was followed by two centuries of war with the Turks. The population fled and the area at the foot of Velebit was completely abandoned. As the Turkish power began to fade, in 1671 the Venetian authorities began to populate the area of Starigrad with Bunjevacs and Croats. In 1700, the Turks finally retreated, and the area at the foot of South Velebit was annexed to Venetian Dalmatia.

Activities

Hiking is the only way to really get to know Paklenica. The Park area contains 150-200 km of trails and paths, from those intended for tourists, leading from Velika Paklenica Canyon to Manita peć cave, Lugarnica forest cottage and the mountain hut, to those intended for mountaineers, leading to the highest peaks of Velebit. The trails in the Park are marked with boards and mountaineering signs.

Most popular trails in Paklenica National Park

route difficulty: 1.5/5
walking time: 2 hours
vertical drop: 400 m
Features on the trail: Paklenica mills, Velika Paklenica Canyon, karstic phenomena, stream falls, climbing area, Anića kuk rock, Lugarnica forest cottage, hut in Paklenica at the foot of mountain villages of Parići and Ramići.

route difficulty: 2/5
walking time: 1,5 hours
vertical drop: 450 m
Features on the trail: a panoramic view of the cliffs of Anića kuk, Jurasova glavica and Manita peć (Zub od Manite peći), Manita peć cave

route difficulty: 4/5
walking time: 3 hours
vertical drop: 300 m
Features on the trail: karstic rock forms, panoramic views, karstic flora and fauna

route difficulty: 4/5
walking time: 6 hours
vertical drop: 650 m
Features on the trail: Velika Paklenica Canyon, black pine and beech woods, Vodarica pit, Kapljarka cave, karstic phenomena, Mala Paklenica Canyon.

route difficulty: 3/5
walking time: 6 hours
vertical drop: 600 m
Features on the trail: karstic phenomena, rural agglomeration, panoramic views, black pine and beech forest communities, flora and fauna.

route difficulty: 2.5/5
walking time: 3,5 hours
vertical drop: 990m
Features on the trail: beech forests, glacial/fluvial deposits, panoramic views, karstic relief, plants and wildlife

route difficulty: 3.5/5
walking time: 7 hours
vertical drop: 1250m
Features on the trail: panoramic views, karstic valleys, rocky grounds, meadows in rock grounds

route difficulty: 2.5/5
walking time: 6 hours
vertical drop: 400 m
Features on the trail: panoramic views, high-mountain meadows, Babino Lake, panoramic views, a dwarf pine community, meadow flora

route difficulty: 2.5/5
walking time: 6 hours
vertical drop: 1250m
Features on the trail: beech and black pine communities, panoramic views, meadows in rocky grounds, meadow flora, fauna